Tuesday, May 28, 2013

How to Learn to Surf (in Bali)

brit having fun in kuta
So you're planning a holiday to Bali or already on one and have heard and seen the amazing surf culture on the island. Now, you want to take lessons and start rippin’... Well, it takes more than just renting a board and going out there.

To learn without having to endure my mishaps or at least not as much, take heed my advice:

TAKE PROPER LESSONS

If you can afford it, get with a class at a proper surf school. If the school is an efficient one, it will have qualified and well-trained instructors that will teach you the important basics from safety to etiquette all the way to catching your own waves.

WARNING: Bogus or Inefficient Instructors!!

You want to avoid this. There are many locals here pretending to be good teachers but they’re not. They are the kind who:

  • Don’t teach you about safety. This is a FIRST and a MUST. Very important before you even get in the water or learn the basic movements.
  • Give you hasty lessons on the basic skills; not even checking your poses and movements nor practicing you enough on land and in water.
  • Don’t take you to proper beginner spots. There are spots for beginners and your instructor should know them. You should be learning there!
  • Surfs more than you during the lesson. Some instructors take students to spots of their choice where the instructor can give a 'lesson', pushing the students into waves not even good for them, just so they themself can surf!
These instructors are easy to identify because you see them carelessly pushing their student into some wave where the student wipes out and gets in other surfers' ways. The instructor then takes the next wave and starts practicing his own moves! Sweet life yeah? Not for the student.

  • Don’t teach you about line-up etiquette. Yes, there’s such a thing. You don’t want to be the kook out there getting in everyone’s way. Your instructor should teach you about proper positioning and location as a beginner.

  • Rushes the student into the line-up. Everyone knows that a beginner should be starting on the inside, catching white water. Not sitting out the back with better surfers, trying to drop in on set waves. It's very dangerous for the student and others to say the least.

  • Most beginners can barely pop-up, so they should only be practicing their balance and techniques in already broken and mellow waves.


So, don’t hesitate to do some research about the best surf schools or ask for recommendations. You are a paying customer and deserve only the best surf lessons and experience.

There are PLENTY of surf instructors on the island and here are some that I’ve actually seen do a good job in my area (bukit):

Schools and Camps

PADANG SURF SCHOOL
LBS SURF SCHOOL
KAMAFARI SURFCAMP

TNT BALI SURF SCHOOL (based in Bingin)       Contact TEKO:  +62-83-117246584

*it's important to have a max of 3 students to 1 instructor ratio. if there are 15 of you with only 2 instructors, then you know it's 'tidak bagus!' (not good).

            For individual instruction:

           Wayan:  +62-878-6158-0014
           Steamy: +62-812-3917-2962


Ready to go ON YOUR OWN??

READ ON ABOUT WATER SAFETY

It pays to learn about how to keep yourself safe in the water. Learn about how channels and currents run, riptides, and swimming in the ocean.

Also, learn how to safely wipe-out and protect your head (and body) when you fall. Falling over a sandy bottom is different from falling over a reef. Learn how to do this.

PRACTICE  TO  PROGRESS

As with learning about water and safety pre-surf, it’s important to also practice your “pop-ups” while on land. Do this a lot as it will greatly help you once you’re in the water. More so, learn to paddle properly and how to do so without tiring yourself too much.

Learn to not panic when you wipe-out or are under water. Relax, hold your breath, and get back up safely. Needless to say, for a better learning experience where you can practice properly the skills mentioned above, learn at a beginner surf spot!


COUNT  IN  THE  CONDITIONS

It’s beneficial to learn about the daily conditions, especially in Bali where tides play a big role in how breaks work. There are conditions where going out is risky and dangerous for a beginning surfer. Some examples are: the swell and waves are too big, the waters are too choppy, the current is too strong (maybe even a dangerous rip current), the wind is too strong or onshore, or the tide is too low (could mean exposed or very shallow reef).

Take the time to sit at the beach and enjoy watching the more advanced surfers.

Not everyday is a surf day, especially for beginners. 

WHITE  WATER  FUN

You see all the better surfers rippin’ at the back yeah? And you dream of being out there doing what they do? Well, it is possible but that's going to take a long while so better start smart, small, and simple.

There is no shame in catching and riding white water. Everyone should start here as it's the best place to practice popping up, standing on the board, and balancing. This is a great way to build your confidence in surfing, master the first steps, and have fun.

In case you don’t know what white water is – this is the foamy, white, rolling froth after the wave has broken.


DON’T  RUSH

Many people make the mistake of thinking they can get really good at surfing easily and quickly. I’ve seen some beginners take off on knee-high waves today and rush to taking off in the back to shoulder-high the next day. Stay riding the white water until you get really good at it!

Reality check: Most of the amazing surfers you see in videos, contests or at your local breaks have been surfing since they were kids. The difference between them and you? Experience and a hell lot of water time!

Even Kelly Slater himself said he mastered each and every step before he moved on to the next one. So, don’t rush to be like them. Surfing is very difficult and it takes time to master the steps and learn the skills. Work your way up slowly but surely.


RESPECT  and  SKILL  LEVELS

In the same vein and as I had mentioned in the bogus instructors section, there is such a thing as line-up etiquette in surfing. Learn this and keep to it.

First, know your skill level – beginner, intermediate, advanced, etc. If you’re a beginner, well, it’s best to not force yourself into the line-up at an advance surf spot to begin with. But, for some reason you really think you’re ready to go out there then stay on the shoulder, watch how the others move, and learn the cycle.

Don’t drop in a surfer’s wave. The basic rule is whoever is closest to the curl of a certain wave has right of way. 

Don't get in the way. If you're inexperienced and sitting on the inside of an advanced break, chances are you're in the way! You'll probably end up getting yelled at or maybe even run over.

Take turns. Surfers with manners know how to take turns and not ruin others' surf sessions.

Respect the regulars and especially the locals. Unfortunately, as a foreigner, you are a visitor here and the locals have their ways. Get with the program and don’t ruffle any feathers. If you do, you may get kicked out of a spot and not allowed to return again. Yes, this happens.



***********************

Learning to surf isn’t easy, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be fun. Surfing takes a lot of time and effort but once you catch a nice wave, ride it, and feel the breeze on your face. The thrill and exhilaration you’ll feel makes all the paddling, wipe-outs, and exhaustion worth it!

Hopefully, I’ve shared some important beginner advice and have motivated you to try and learn to surf here in Bali. But before I end this, I think it’s highly imperative I ask this simple yet very important question before you go out and get lessons:     

CAN YOU SWIM??

If not, you better learn how first!!




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