After our refreshing swim at
Tirta Gangga, Kristin and I were ready to continue northward. We left behind the cool wet climate of the mountains as we moved towards the coastline. We arrived in Amed feeling hungry, and stopped off for a nice lunch in the dry midday heat. We didn't know where to stay, so we asked a couple locals and began our search. Several young girls approached us trying to sell some items to earn money for school, and ended up leading us right to the ideal warung. It was just steps from the beach, a short bike ride from all the restaurants, and we were the only guests that night. We thanked the girls with some sodas while they taught us how to blow bubbles using a local leaf.
This 14-kilometer stretch of Bali's northeastern coastline is commonly referred to as Amed, though it encompasses several other small fishing communities (including Aas, Banyuning, Bunutan, Cucik, Jemeluk, Lipah, and Selang). Amed has only recently made its way into tourist itineraries, which has spurred dramatic improvements in living conditions over the last decade including paved roads and phone lines. There are plenty of homestays, hotels, and restaurants lining the quiet streets here, so finding accommodation and food is not a worry either.
Amed has rightfully earned a reputation as a quiet getaway from the hustle and bustle of southern Bali. Along with its quiet black sand beaches and beautiful mountain (and volcano) views, there are several world class diving and snorkeling sites. Numerous dive companies offer full PADI certification courses and dive trips in the area, including trips to the famous USAT Liberty wreck in Tulamben that attracts thousands of divers every year. I've been wanting to get dive-certified for several years, but have yet to make the commitment. Kristin isn't a diver either, but we love the water and were excited to do some snorkeling. We weren't able to make it to Tulamben due to time constraints, and instead enjoyed the site closer to our homestay.
We first found the idyllic bay of Jemeluk just a few minutes up the road from our homestay. The reef here starts close to the beach and stays pretty shallow until about 50 meters offshore, providing an easy access snorkel in calm waters. When we first arrived, there were only two other people in the water, and we enjoyed the reef by ourselves until a scuba group of 10 arrived on boat and jumped off in the deeper water (I think this is a popular spot for training courses as the water is calm, relatively shallow, and close to the accommodations). The bay had excellent visibility and made it easy to enjoy the broad variety of coral formations and fish.
Our next stop was the Japanese shipwreck in Banyuning. Despite its name, very little information is known about this ship (including if it is truly of Japanese origin). The wreck itself is located just 20 meters offshore in 5-8 meters of water, and the ocean drops off significantly just past the wreck. Visibility is not as good as Jemeluk due to stronger currents, though it's still pretty clear compared to a lot of spots I've dove. Just past the wreck, the ocean drops off significantly and there are some amazing structures to be seen here for more experienced snorkelers.
After a long day exploring Amed, we were ready for a good night's sleep before our next adventure!
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