Vietnam and Scams

I had a great solo trip to Hanoi this January even when it started out with a bit of a hassle and scare.

It all starts at the airport.

I flew into Noi Ba Airport and was unsure where to go as I descended the escalators to the lower floor. I saw some foreigners cued up to a window with some filling out papers on the side. I knew I didn't have to get a visa being Asian exempt (more below) but, I followed the people anyway just to be sure. 

As I was in line to what turns out to be the Visa Registration office, the officer at the window was shouting rudely to the ones in front of me regarding their visa. Sounds like he was reprimanding them or something. After which he asked them for some money regarding their visas which I found strange because I had read that countries that weren't exempt need to acquire a visa before even entering the country. One cannot obtain a visa at the airport unless maybe you're a diplomat (or in some special case).

Something told me some kind of corruption was going on and the people had no choice ut to relent to get on with their holiday. Then, it was my turn, I was pointed to go straight to the immigration cubicles to the right. Apparently, I had no business there.

This was due to the Bilateral Visa Exemption Agreement. But for those nationals of countries not included in this agreement, you have to obtain a visa beforehand through the Vietnamese consulate in your country or wherever you are. For more information on this and on how to obtain a Visa from the Vietnamese Tourism Government click here.

After getting stamped, I proceeded to the baggage claim area then to the lobby to find transportation.

My destination was to the Old Quarter and there are a number of ways to get there:

Public buses:        Posiive: cheapest but do so only when you know the city well enough.

                                  Negative: trip is way longer. You may get lost.

Hostel / Hotel Service:            hotel service picks you up.

                                                     Positive: comfortable, fast, and safe.

     Negative: expensive.

Taxi:        250, 000 – 290,000 Dong  ($12-14) 

                 Positive: quick and often comfortable. Trip takes 45 minutes to the Old Quarter.

                 Negative: You have to haggle to get a good price. High risk of getting scammed.

Airport Shuttle:          Most travelers take this.
                                       Where to get?          The shuttles are parked just outside of the terminal, 
                                       to the right. You may give the payment to the driver directly.
                                       Positive:  cheap. 42,000 Dong  ($2)

                                       Negative:  the Trip takes 1 ½ hours to Old Quarter and the shuttle stops
                                       at the Vietnam Airlines Office on 1 Quang Trung, 2kms (about 20  
                                       minutes walk) south of the Old Quarter; not entirely fun when it's cold 
                                      or raining.

There are also banks and money changers at the lobby; it’d be wise to change some money there to make it easier for you to pay the drivers or your hotel.

Strange hospitality

There are also loads of ‘tourism booths’ that are supposed to help foreigners out. Those affiliated with certain hotels are helpful and kind but mostly, they’re indifferent if not rude. I say this based on experience. Read on below.

I went to a travel agency to ask for a free map. He gave me one but kept insisting I ride his friend’s taxi for $18 dollars. From my research, the ride shouldn’t cost more than $14, so I bartered. I still wasn’t sure if I would ride the cab because people have said the shuttle was all right. However, it was raining and very cold so a 20-minute walk didn't sound too enticing. Also, although I can get a cab at Quan Trung to Ma May in the Old Quarter (where I was to find a hostel), the local drivers are known to drive you in circles to keep the meter going and you of course pay more. I didn't really want to get hassled by that.

The travel agency clerk agreed to $14, and as I waited for the driver, I spotted a couple and decided to ask them about traveling in Hanoi. They told me to be careful with riding taxis as the drivers pull scams all the time and just the week before they got mugged! They rode a cab and somewhere along the way the driver picked up some male passengers that took their money! Hearing this made me even more hesitant to take the cab but I had already said yes so, I figured I’ll just be careful!

When I walked back to the travel agent, he was speaking to his taxi driver friend. He bid his friend to leave then turned to me and rudely said that I missed my chance! That I am stuck at the airport because I didn't trust him!

Woah. He was obviously miffed that I had spoken to the couple. When I asked what he meant, he said the other passengers were in a hurry and had to leave. I then realized 2 things: First, I was to pay $14 but had to ride with other passengers?! Second, maybe those passengers weren’t even passengers. They may be part of a scam and I’d get mugged like the couple!

I told him “Fine. I’m better off without his cab anyway!” and left.

I figured I’d check out the cheap Airport Shuttle and see if it’s okay. I was talking to the driver regarding payment and where I wanted to go when another female traveler overhearing the conversation asked me if I wanted to split a cab. She told me she’s deciding to take this cab that charged her $14. I agreed to go with her as it was getting late and I really wanted to get to the Old Quarter and into a hotel.

We went to the guy and told him we’ll both take his cab but to the initially agreed price of $14. He agreed and that was great because that means we’d only pay $7 each. He told us to follow him and as we kept walking further away from the airport. A couple of airport guards shouted at him angrily. Even if I can't understand Vietnamese I can understand 'anger' in their tones. 

Finally, outside the airport, the guy points to us then goes off to cross the highway leaving us with a bunch of guys in black! (they love black in Vietnam). Oh yeah, it was awkward and scary. Two foreign female travelers vs 8 local dudes on their turf, not exactly a safe situation. 

Turns out, the guy we spoke to and led us out was just the middle man and these guys hanging outside the airport are the private operators not legally allowed to get passengers from the airport! No wonder the guards were upset.

The guys kept talking amongst themselves. One guy finally came up to us and showed us an amount of 400,000+ Dong on his cellphone and said it was $14. We knew that wasn't correct so I took out my cellphone with a calculator and showed him the conversion. His amount was $25! Crazy! We told him the middle man said $14. He then showed us another amount insisting it was $14. But upon calculation was $20.I told him his calculations and rates were wrong. I punched the amount we agreed on in Dong: 280,000 = $14 and showed him. He hesitated and started speaking angrily to his mates which I think is about how we’re being such brats about the whole thing. At this point another cab passed by. I told the cheating dude 'no thanks' and started walking to the other cab. He panicked, pulled us back and agreed. I guess he realized,we’re better than no earnings for the day!

Oh, it was a fun ride. He kept shaking his head and muttering to himself probably about the two smart and stubborn bitches in the back of his car! haha

What to watch out for

Good thing I read about scams in Vietnam so I was somehow prepared. I read about how the drivers would change the price agreed upon like they’d say "Okay, $13. 400,000 Dong. $13. Okay.’" And if you weren't aware of the currency exchange rate, you get fooled as you just paid $20!  Exactly what almost happened to me and the girl I shared the cab with.

Another is how they will agree to turning on the meter and drive round and round just to make you pay more.

TIPS TO SURVIVE HANOI:

      -       It would be wise to prepare oneself to the coldness and unfriendly natures of the Vietnamese, bordering on rude at times, so don’t expect much from them not even a smile.

      -       If you’re a solo traveler and going to the Old Quarter, just use the Airport Shuttle. If you have a hotel booking, get picked up and save yourself the hassle of negotiating.

      -       If you really want to take a cab, it’s highly imperative that the driver understands the amount you agreed on both in dollars and in DONG. Might be wise to share a cab with another traveler going the same way. There’s safety in numbers.

-       Don’t worry if the cab driver refuses your quote/offer, there’s plenty more around.

-       Don’t be afraid of the locals or look weak, especially the females, they will prey on you. Assert yourself and show them you know what’s going on without being mean.

The ride from the airport is about 45 minutes to Ma May in the 

Old Quarter. Here is where all the hostels, travel agencies, 
restaurants, pubs, coffee shops, shopping district are found. 
It’s such a busy area populated by locals and foreigners.



Next:

Where to stay?

What to do in Hanoi?